Title: Recent results obtained from a numerical wave theory for highly nonlinear shallow water waves
Abstract: Analytical representation of shallow water wave phenomena is complicated due, in part, to the fact that nonlinear features are important in a predominant number, if not all , problems of shallow water wave motion. It therefore may not even be approximately valid to utilize the Airy wave theory and to assume that various wave components behave independently of one another. At present, even for periodic wave motion, predictions of shallow water wave phenomena based on various available theories differ by disturbing amounts. In this paper, several features of a numerical wave theory (Stream function) are reviewed and explored to demonstrate: (a) the agreement between theory and laboratory measurements, and (b) the differences between the numerical wave theory and the Airy wave theory. In particular, total wave energy, momentum and momentum flux , pressure response factors, maximum drag forces, shoaling coefficients, etc. are examined. The purpose of this paper is to direct attention to the very significant differences that exist between the two theories in shallow water and the need for additional research to resolve the differences noted.
Publication Year: 1970
Publication Date: 1970-09-10
Language: en
Type: article
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