Abstract: This chapter presents the hydrodynamics of the surf zone and how it relates to sediment transport and beach morphodynamics. We discuss how breaking waves enhance radiation stress in both the longshore and cross directions, which can result in water level gradients that drive surf zone circulation. We also detail infragravity waves, which are a dominant driver of surf zone processes, and outline the various sub-types (bound waves, leaky waves and edge waves). The key types of surf zone currents driven by radiation stress are explained, including those that are largely directed cross-shore (bed return flow and rip currents) and longshore, and explain how the latter are modulated by shear waves. Finally, the chapter describes how geological control (e.g. reefs) can interact with the aforementioned processes to modify surf zone processes.
Publication Year: 2020
Publication Date: 2020-01-01
Language: en
Type: book-chapter
Indexed In: ['crossref']
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Cited By Count: 4
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