Publication Information

{'id': 'https://openalex.org/W2809457375', 'doi': 'https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.1.33_1', 'title': 'New materialism: A theoretical framework for fashion in the age of technological innovation', 'display_name': 'New materialism: A theoretical framework for fashion in the age of technological innovation', 'publication_year': 2018, 'publication_date': '2018-04-01', 'ids': {'openalex': 'https://openalex.org/W2809457375', 'doi': 'https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.1.33_1', 'mag': '2809457375'}, 'language': 'en', 'primary_location': {'is_oa': True, 'landing_page_url': 'https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.1.33_1', 'pdf_url': None, 'source': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/S4210189997', 'display_name': 'International Journal of Fashion Studies', 'issn_l': '2051-7106', 'issn': ['2051-7106', '2051-7114'], 'is_oa': False, 'is_in_doaj': False, 'is_core': True, 'host_organization': 'https://openalex.org/P4310311755', 'host_organization_name': 'Intellect', 'host_organization_lineage': ['https://openalex.org/P4310311755'], 'host_organization_lineage_names': ['Intellect'], 'type': 'journal'}, 'license': 'cc-by-nc-nd', 'license_id': 'https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by-nc-nd', 'version': 'publishedVersion', 'is_accepted': True, 'is_published': True}, 'type': 'article', 'type_crossref': 'journal-article', 'indexed_in': ['crossref'], 'open_access': {'is_oa': True, 'oa_status': 'hybrid', 'oa_url': 'https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.1.33_1', 'any_repository_has_fulltext': True}, 'authorships': [{'author_position': 'first', 'author': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/A5010374544', 'display_name': 'Anneke Smelik', 'orcid': 'https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1333-3544'}, 'institutions': [{'id': 'https://openalex.org/I145872427', 'display_name': 'Radboud University Nijmegen', 'ror': 'https://ror.org/016xsfp80', 'country_code': 'NL', 'type': 'education', 'lineage': ['https://openalex.org/I145872427']}], 'countries': ['NL'], 'is_corresponding': True, 'raw_author_name': 'Anneke Smelik', 'raw_affiliation_strings': ['Radboud University, the Netherlands'], 'affiliations': [{'raw_affiliation_string': 'Radboud University, the Netherlands', 'institution_ids': ['https://openalex.org/I145872427']}]}], 'institution_assertions': [], 'countries_distinct_count': 1, 'institutions_distinct_count': 1, 'corresponding_author_ids': ['https://openalex.org/A5010374544'], 'corresponding_institution_ids': ['https://openalex.org/I145872427'], 'apc_list': None, 'apc_paid': None, 'fwci': 41.403, 'has_fulltext': True, 'fulltext_origin': 'pdf', 'cited_by_count': 51, 'citation_normalized_percentile': {'value': 0.995453, 'is_in_top_1_percent': True, 'is_in_top_10_percent': True}, 'cited_by_percentile_year': {'min': 96, 'max': 97}, 'biblio': {'volume': '5', 'issue': '1', 'first_page': '33', 'last_page': '54'}, 'is_retracted': False, 'is_paratext': False, 'primary_topic': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/T12514', 'display_name': 'Fashion and Cultural Textiles', 'score': 0.9993, 'subfield': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/subfields/1209', 'display_name': 'Museology'}, 'field': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/fields/12', 'display_name': 'Arts and Humanities'}, 'domain': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/domains/2', 'display_name': 'Social Sciences'}}, 'topics': [{'id': 'https://openalex.org/T12514', 'display_name': 'Fashion and Cultural Textiles', 'score': 0.9993, 'subfield': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/subfields/1209', 'display_name': 'Museology'}, 'field': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/fields/12', 'display_name': 'Arts and Humanities'}, 'domain': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/domains/2', 'display_name': 'Social Sciences'}}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/T13316', 'display_name': 'Crafts, Textile, and Design', 'score': 0.9957, 'subfield': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/subfields/1209', 'display_name': 'Museology'}, 'field': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/fields/12', 'display_name': 'Arts and Humanities'}, 'domain': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/domains/2', 'display_name': 'Social Sciences'}}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/T12444', 'display_name': 'Art, Politics, and Modernism', 'score': 0.9811, 'subfield': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/subfields/1213', 'display_name': 'Visual Arts and Performing Arts'}, 'field': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/fields/12', 'display_name': 'Arts and Humanities'}, 'domain': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/domains/2', 'display_name': 'Social Sciences'}}], 'keywords': [{'id': 'https://openalex.org/keywords/materialism', 'display_name': 'Materialism', 'score': 0.84248537}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/keywords/materiality', 'display_name': 'Materiality', 'score': 0.72781926}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/keywords/posthumanism', 'display_name': 'Posthumanism', 'score': 0.5010295}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/keywords/posthuman', 'display_name': 'Posthuman', 'score': 0.4410299}], 'concepts': [{'id': 'https://openalex.org/C144218379', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7081', 'display_name': 'Materialism', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.84248537}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C123307717', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1003682', 'display_name': 'Materiality (auditing)', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.72781926}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C108170787', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3951828', 'display_name': 'Agency (philosophy)', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.62569076}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C530175646', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11460', 'display_name': 'Clothing', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.57929444}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C2778061430', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q188823', 'display_name': 'Scholarship', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.5565215}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C2779726722', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2119946', 'display_name': 'Posthumanism', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.5010295}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C144024400', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201', 'display_name': 'Sociology', 'level': 0, 'score': 0.49603233}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C107038049', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986', 'display_name': 'Aesthetics', 'level': 1, 'score': 0.48588723}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C2779343474', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3109175', 'display_name': 'Context (archaeology)', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.4785041}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C2779549840', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q18276277', 'display_name': 'Posthuman', 'level': 2, 'score': 0.4410299}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C111472728', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9471', 'display_name': 'Epistemology', 'level': 1, 'score': 0.36990058}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C95124753', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q875686', 'display_name': 'Environmental ethics', 'level': 1, 'score': 0.3334197}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C36289849', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q34749', 'display_name': 'Social science', 'level': 1, 'score': 0.26057428}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C17744445', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442', 'display_name': 'Political science', 'level': 0, 'score': 0.19145563}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C95457728', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309', 'display_name': 'History', 'level': 0, 'score': 0.16199425}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C142362112', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735', 'display_name': 'Art', 'level': 0, 'score': 0.14328834}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C199539241', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748', 'display_name': 'Law', 'level': 1, 'score': 0.10452831}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C138885662', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5891', 'display_name': 'Philosophy', 'level': 0, 'score': 0.0887346}, {'id': 'https://openalex.org/C166957645', 'wikidata': 'https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498', 'display_name': 'Archaeology', 'level': 1, 'score': 0.0}], 'mesh': [], 'locations_count': 3, 'locations': [{'is_oa': True, 'landing_page_url': 'https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.1.33_1', 'pdf_url': None, 'source': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/S4210189997', 'display_name': 'International Journal of Fashion Studies', 'issn_l': '2051-7106', 'issn': ['2051-7106', '2051-7114'], 'is_oa': False, 'is_in_doaj': False, 'is_core': True, 'host_organization': 'https://openalex.org/P4310311755', 'host_organization_name': 'Intellect', 'host_organization_lineage': ['https://openalex.org/P4310311755'], 'host_organization_lineage_names': ['Intellect'], 'type': 'journal'}, 'license': 'cc-by-nc-nd', 'license_id': 'https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by-nc-nd', 'version': 'publishedVersion', 'is_accepted': True, 'is_published': True}, {'is_oa': True, 'landing_page_url': 'https://hdl.handle.net/2066/195671', 'pdf_url': 'https://repository.ubn.ru.nl/bitstream/handle/2066/195671/1/195671pub.pdf', 'source': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/S4306401843', 'display_name': 'Data Archiving and Networked Services (DANS)', 'issn_l': None, 'issn': None, 'is_oa': True, 'is_in_doaj': False, 'is_core': False, 'host_organization': 'https://openalex.org/I1322597698', 'host_organization_name': 'Royal Netherlands Academy of Arts and Sciences', 'host_organization_lineage': ['https://openalex.org/I1322597698'], 'host_organization_lineage_names': ['Royal Netherlands Academy of Arts and Sciences'], 'type': 'repository'}, 'license': 'other-oa', 'license_id': 'https://openalex.org/licenses/other-oa', 'version': 'publishedVersion', 'is_accepted': True, 'is_published': True}, {'is_oa': True, 'landing_page_url': 'https://repository.ubn.ru.nl//bitstream/handle/2066/195671/195671pub.pdf', 'pdf_url': 'https://repository.ubn.ru.nl//bitstream/handle/2066/195671/195671pub.pdf', 'source': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/S4306401067', 'display_name': 'Radboud Repository (Radboud University)', 'issn_l': None, 'issn': None, 'is_oa': True, 'is_in_doaj': False, 'is_core': False, 'host_organization': 'https://openalex.org/I145872427', 'host_organization_name': 'Radboud University Nijmegen', 'host_organization_lineage': ['https://openalex.org/I145872427'], 'host_organization_lineage_names': ['Radboud University Nijmegen'], 'type': 'repository'}, 'license': None, 'license_id': None, 'version': 'publishedVersion', 'is_accepted': True, 'is_published': True}], 'best_oa_location': {'is_oa': True, 'landing_page_url': 'https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.1.33_1', 'pdf_url': None, 'source': {'id': 'https://openalex.org/S4210189997', 'display_name': 'International Journal of Fashion Studies', 'issn_l': '2051-7106', 'issn': ['2051-7106', '2051-7114'], 'is_oa': False, 'is_in_doaj': False, 'is_core': True, 'host_organization': 'https://openalex.org/P4310311755', 'host_organization_name': 'Intellect', 'host_organization_lineage': ['https://openalex.org/P4310311755'], 'host_organization_lineage_names': ['Intellect'], 'type': 'journal'}, 'license': 'cc-by-nc-nd', 'license_id': 'https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by-nc-nd', 'version': 'publishedVersion', 'is_accepted': True, 'is_published': True}, 'sustainable_development_goals': [{'score': 0.5, 'display_name': 'Industry, innovation and infrastructure', 'id': 'https://metadata.un.org/sdg/9'}], 'grants': [], 'datasets': [], 'versions': [], 'referenced_works_count': 46, 'referenced_works': ['https://openalex.org/W1481255791', 'https://openalex.org/W1487343614', 'https://openalex.org/W1510091428', 'https://openalex.org/W1520548237', 'https://openalex.org/W1546262628', 'https://openalex.org/W1565923979', 'https://openalex.org/W1577793728', 'https://openalex.org/W1686892747', 'https://openalex.org/W1988015379', 'https://openalex.org/W1990439862', 'https://openalex.org/W1996149054', 'https://openalex.org/W2040576315', 'https://openalex.org/W2059539664', 'https://openalex.org/W2094966912', 'https://openalex.org/W2102226230', 'https://openalex.org/W2121690840', 'https://openalex.org/W2203160351', 'https://openalex.org/W2210909909', 'https://openalex.org/W2215067095', 'https://openalex.org/W2324346632', 'https://openalex.org/W2334035929', 'https://openalex.org/W2473750526', 'https://openalex.org/W252761405', 'https://openalex.org/W2594055788', 'https://openalex.org/W2604659105', 'https://openalex.org/W2609099981', 'https://openalex.org/W2617369555', 'https://openalex.org/W2772011086', 'https://openalex.org/W2795575824', 'https://openalex.org/W2809457375', 'https://openalex.org/W2897489028', 'https://openalex.org/W2970991584', 'https://openalex.org/W3036561622', 'https://openalex.org/W3089431518', 'https://openalex.org/W3125874266', 'https://openalex.org/W356335645', 'https://openalex.org/W4230516298', 'https://openalex.org/W4230631973', 'https://openalex.org/W4233434787', 'https://openalex.org/W4234436631', 'https://openalex.org/W4249450047', 'https://openalex.org/W4300522190', 'https://openalex.org/W604433070', 'https://openalex.org/W605020356', 'https://openalex.org/W616912078', 'https://openalex.org/W650922984'], 'related_works': ['https://openalex.org/W4383562152', 'https://openalex.org/W4291222781', 'https://openalex.org/W4211019100', 'https://openalex.org/W3011296491', 'https://openalex.org/W3007771691', 'https://openalex.org/W2991332897', 'https://openalex.org/W2810159726', 'https://openalex.org/W2731598772', 'https://openalex.org/W2469952701', 'https://openalex.org/W1599679536'], 'abstract_inverted_index': {'Abstract': [0], 'Working': [1], 'from': [2, 96, 106, 122, 176], 'the': [3, 34, 46, 61, 65, 85, 91, 107, 110, 113, 116, 153, 180, 184, 190, 206, 219, 256], 'case': [4], 'study': [5], 'of': [6, 81, 87, 93, 109, 115, 126, 142, 152, 159, 183, 192, 199, 209, 222, 242], 'Dutch': [7], 'designer': [8], 'Iris': [9, 232], 'van': [10, 233], 'Herpen,': [11], 'this': [12], 'article': [13, 59], 'proposes': [14], 'a': [15, 123, 150, 174, 229], 'new-materialist': [16, 230], 'framework': [17], 'for': [18, 75, 204, 218], 'fashion': [19, 43, 49, 76, 212], 'studies.': [20, 44, 77], 'The': [21, 78, 140, 166, 197], '‘material': [22], 'turn’': [23], 'has': [24, 38], 'gained': [25], 'substantial': [26], 'recognition': [27], 'in': [28, 33, 42, 53, 90, 128, 211], 'social': [29], 'and': [30, 70, 105, 135, 156, 161, 195, 225, 246, 252], 'cultural': [31], 'research': [32], 'past': [35], 'decade': [36], 'but': [37], 'received': [39], 'less': [40], 'attention': [41, 217], 'At': [45], 'same': [47], 'time,': [48], 'hardly': [50], 'ever': [51], 'figures': [52], 'scholarship': [54], 'on': [55], 'new': [56, 82, 143], 'materialism.': [57], 'This': [58], 'connects': [60], 'two': [62], 'fields,': [63], 'surveys': [64], 'literature,': [66], 'foregrounds': [67], 'key': [68, 167], 'concepts': [69], 'points': [71], 'to': [72, 100, 112, 179], 'possible': [73], 'directions': [74], 'interdisciplinary': [79], 'field': [80, 92], 'materialism': [83, 144], 'highlights': [84], 'role': [86, 208], 'non-human': [88], 'factors': [89], 'fashion,': [94], 'ranging': [95], 'raw': [97], 'materials': [98, 102], '(cotton)': [99], 'smart': [101, 226], '(solar': [103], 'cells)': [104], 'textility': [108], 'garment': [111], 'tactility': [114], 'human': [117, 130, 154, 177, 185, 257], 'body.': [118, 258], 'New': [119], 'materialists': [120], 'work': [121], 'dynamic': [124], 'notion': [125], 'life': [127], 'which': [129, 147], 'bodies,': [131], 'fibres,': [132, 243], 'fabrics,': [133, 193], 'garments': [134], 'technologies': [136], 'are': [137], 'inextricably': [138], 'entangled.': [139], 'context': [141], 'is': [145, 169, 202], 'posthumanism,': [146], 'entails': [148], 'both': [149], 'decentring': [151], 'subject': [155], 'an': [157], 'understanding': [158], 'things': [160], 'nature': [162], 'as': [163, 187, 189, 239], 'having': [164], 'agency.': [165], 'concept': [168], 'thus': [170], 'material': [171, 200, 220], 'agency,': [172], 'involving': [173], 'shift': [175], 'agency': [178, 201], 'intelligent': [181], 'matter': [182], 'body': [186], 'well': [188], 'materiality': [191], 'clothes': [194], 'technology.': [196], 'insight': [198], 'important': [203], 'acknowledging': [205], 'pivotal': [207], 'technology': [210], 'design': [213], 'today,': [214], 'allowing': [215], 'greater': [216], 'aspects': [221], 'high-performance': [223], 'fibres': [224], 'fabrics.': [227], 'From': [228], 'perspective,': [231], 'Herpen’s': [234], 'designs': [235], 'can': [236], 'be': [237], 'understood': [238], 'hybrid': [240], 'assemblages': [241], 'materials,': [244], 'fabrics': [245], 'skin': [247], 'that': [248], 'open': [249], 'up': [250], 'engaged': [251], 'meaningful': [253], 'interconnections': [254], 'with': [255]}, 'cited_by_api_url': 'https://api.openalex.org/works?filter=cites:W2809457375', 'counts_by_year': [{'year': 2024, 'cited_by_count': 8}, {'year': 2023, 'cited_by_count': 16}, {'year': 2022, 'cited_by_count': 8}, {'year': 2021, 'cited_by_count': 5}, {'year': 2020, 'cited_by_count': 9}, {'year': 2019, 'cited_by_count': 4}, {'year': 2018, 'cited_by_count': 1}], 'updated_date': '2025-01-16T07:58:13.914243', 'created_date': '2018-06-29'}