Title: Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
Abstract: In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.
Publication Year: 1958
Publication Date: 1958-05-01
Language: en
Type: article
Indexed In: ['crossref']
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Cited By Count: 735
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