Title: Application of the solitary wave theory to shoaling oscillatory waves
Abstract: The celerities of shallow‐water waves were studied in the laboratory as a function of wave height and wave length or period. The experimental celerities were compared to the theoretical values obtained from the oscillatory (Stokian) wave theory, the solitary wave theory, and the cnoidal wave theory. The last was found to be experimentally valid for the transition but is practically inapplicable for prediction. On the basis of this comparison, an effective wave length could be defined below which the Stokian theory applies, and above which the solitary wave theory gives better results.
Publication Year: 1957
Publication Date: 1957-02-01
Language: en
Type: article
Indexed In: ['crossref']
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Cited By Count: 8
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