Title: Non-linear waves in the nearshore region: Shoaling and set-up
Abstract: Many previous theories of nearshore effects of ocean waves have used linearized, small amplitude wave theory which, though giving results in general agreement with observation, is not strictly applicable in this region. The present theory uses a combination of third order hyperbolic waves (an approximation to cnoidal waves) near the shore and Stokes waves further out. This is shown to be a suitable assumption for the case of spilling breakers on gentle slopes. The momentum and energy fluxes given by this model are calculated and the consequences for wave shoaling and set-up are discussed.
Publication Year: 1974
Publication Date: 1974-07-01
Language: en
Type: article
Indexed In: ['crossref']
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Cited By Count: 23
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